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Denitrator Review



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#1 Tangs

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 03:13 PM

Background
I thought it would be appropriate to give a brief ntro into Nitrate prior to the review since it (NO3) occurs in every aquarium produced by aerobic (oxygen-using) nitrifying bacteria when they break down nitrite.

Many reefers suggested that nitrate isnít that toxic to most fishes, experience suggests otherwise, as it causes problems for sensitive fishes, especially some marine fishes, fry and invertebrates, and it also encourages the growth of the nuisance algae. laugh.gif

Some bacteria can remove nitrate from the water and convert it into Ammonia, nitrite or Nitrous Oxide (N2O), and others produce Nitrogen (N2).

Unlike the aerobic bacteria that remove ammonia and nitrite, those that remove nitrate are anaerobic, and so they need to operate in a low oxygen or oxygen-free environment but there are others aerobic bacteria that are capable of switching to anaerobic respiration when oxygen levels drop, and this bacteria remove nitrate using a process called dissimilation, or nitrate respiration.

If they remove all of the nitrate from the water then the process is called denitrification - hence the filters used to culture these bacteria are usually called denitrification units or denitrators and you can culture these bacteria in a number of ways:

a) in a special filter media,
b) within a natural system,
c/ in a filter called a denitrator.



What Are Denitrators
Denitrators are special designed filters that encourage the growth of anaerobic bacteria that convert nitrate to nitrogen gas and usually are among the best forms of nitrate control. However, they can be quite troublesome to set up and maintain as they also have the potential to add "bad" chemicals like nitrite or hydrogen sulphide to the tank if not correctly adjusted, or if they're malfunction.

Having said that, the flow rate going through the denitrator is critical. If itís too fast, thereíll be too much oxygen present and the unit wonít function correctly and could start to produce nitrite. If itís too slow the filter will either stop, be ineffective, or will start to produce hydrogen sulphide which smells like rotten eggs. wink.gif

Once the filter is mature and has been set up correctly, the water leaving the filter should have a zero nitrate reading and it's best to treat the water in some way before use, because while the nitrate level may be lower, so will the pH, oxygen concentration and Redox Potential (ORP) by trickle the water through some aragonite.



Denitrator Available in the Market
They fall into three main categories:

a) standard denitrators,
b) carbon-fed denitrators,
c) sulphur denitrators.

Standard denitrators are the most basic type and consist of simple chambers through which a very slow flow of water is passed providng a better environment for the growth of denitrifying bacteria than standard external power filters, so they tend to be more effective at removing nitrate than conventional filters. This type of denitrators are usually the least effective form among denitrators.

Carbon-fed denitrators need to be dosed daily with sugar or alcohol to keep the filter running effectively and are more efficient than the standard types where the bacteria have to find carbon in the water. Some of the latest units now come with a special media that slowly releases a separate carbon source for the bacteria, which makes them quite low maintenance. You know which brand I am referring too, right? eyebrow.gif

Sulphur denitrator is the latest approach to use sulphur beads as the media to encourages the growth of the bacteria which oxidise sulphur to produce sulphate and reduce nitrate to nitrogen gas in the process. This means thereís no need to add a carbon source like alcohol because the bacteria get everything they need from the sulphur medium and the water.

This type of denitrator is very effective and there are a few models on the marine market which are available to us. wink.gif



Conclusion
However, there's another school of thought saying that denitrators are better suited to freshwater hobbyists than marine reefers and it will be interesting to see how they compare under long-term use.


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#2 wlchew

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Posted 05 November 2006 - 06:49 PM

So Tangs, is there a fourth type like Kent Marine Denitrate and PURA NitraLock?? are they neither no 1. and no.2?

I just started using Nitratelock with Pentair FBR..it looks good...it is better than using those "mud". biggrin2.gif
Date: May 08, 2009 Time: 2050 hrs


{Pardon me as I WON'T RESPONSE to anymore SMS, Please PM..}

MY DE-COM day is ON 4th May 2010.

Link to My 3.5ft Tank


Hi Everyone,

I will post the rest of equipments (from my storeroom) shortly...

Balance item:

All item MUST CLEAR..

Various trace elements (I will come out with the list shortly...ALL of them unused)..

1a. PURPLE-UP U.P. @$28 now only $15 EA.

Equipment:

2a. used CO2 cylinder (think is 2L?) - 2 Set. still in good condition.. $10 each one set
b. one set come with a used sol $50

2b. RM Denitrator can also use as CA Reactor too..going for S$100 - (With re-circulation MaxiJet pump, found my pump and can support PROBE)

2c. Giesemann NOVA II MH-150w (slim) - 1 Set @$130 S$110 Ea



mORE ITEM WILL PUT-UP WHEN I clear my storeroom.
2d. SEIO 820 with euro-bracing mounting bracket - 1 set @$15 ea. [Added]

2e. Another lot of Aqualight 10K X3 , Aqualight Blue X1 and AquaZ Blue Pro x1....all for S$30 [Added]

#3 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 09:11 AM

QUOTE(wlchew @ Nov 5 2006, 06:49 PM) View Post

So Tangs, is there a fourth type like Kent Marine Denitrate and PURA NitraLock?? are they neither no 1. and no.2?

I just started using Nitratelock with Pentair FBR..it looks good...it is better than using those "mud". biggrin2.gif


NitraLock is a filter media and therefore doesn't falls into any category of a Denitrator Filter system since the bacteria are generated in an a low 02 condition and this is what we called anaerobic respiration unlike those (obligate anerobes) which are generated in an oxygen-free environment. smile.gif

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#4 wlchew

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 09:17 AM

QUOTE(Tangs @ Nov 6 2006, 09:11 AM) View Post

NitraLock is a filter media and therefore doesn't falls into any category of a Denitrator Filter system since the bacteria are generated in an a low 02 condition and this is what we called anaerobic respiration unlike those (obligate anerobes) which are generated in an oxygen-free environment. smile.gif


proposetoast.gif ..so, it is not a form of denitrator? ohmy.gif ...o-Oh... slap.gif ..need to setup my Sulphur denitrator liao... devil.gif ..very lazy to firing up.. biggrin2.gif
Date: May 08, 2009 Time: 2050 hrs


{Pardon me as I WON'T RESPONSE to anymore SMS, Please PM..}

MY DE-COM day is ON 4th May 2010.

Link to My 3.5ft Tank


Hi Everyone,

I will post the rest of equipments (from my storeroom) shortly...

Balance item:

All item MUST CLEAR..

Various trace elements (I will come out with the list shortly...ALL of them unused)..

1a. PURPLE-UP U.P. @$28 now only $15 EA.

Equipment:

2a. used CO2 cylinder (think is 2L?) - 2 Set. still in good condition.. $10 each one set
b. one set come with a used sol $50

2b. RM Denitrator can also use as CA Reactor too..going for S$100 - (With re-circulation MaxiJet pump, found my pump and can support PROBE)

2c. Giesemann NOVA II MH-150w (slim) - 1 Set @$130 S$110 Ea



mORE ITEM WILL PUT-UP WHEN I clear my storeroom.
2d. SEIO 820 with euro-bracing mounting bracket - 1 set @$15 ea. [Added]

2e. Another lot of Aqualight 10K X3 , Aqualight Blue X1 and AquaZ Blue Pro x1....all for S$30 [Added]

#5 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 09:33 AM

QUOTE(wlchew @ Nov 6 2006, 09:17 AM) View Post

proposetoast.gif ..so, it is not a form of denitrator? ohmy.gif ...o-Oh... slap.gif ..need to setup my Sulphur denitrator liao... devil.gif ..very lazy to firing up.. biggrin2.gif


It just another form of nitrate dissimilation or respiration since the bacteria removes nitrate and if they do remove all of the nitrate from the water, then the process is called denitrification -

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#6 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 09:53 AM

The new Schuran Nitratefilter 100 from Germany is designed for tanks between 300 up to 3000 litres and itís built from very thick clear acrylic and feels very strong.

Itís got a wide base plate to enable it to be stood alongside a sump, and it comes with most of the fittings required to get it up including a oneway-valve.

The Nitratefilter uses strong plumbing-grade PVC-U fittings and the connectors supplied are made to fit the easily recommended Eheim 1250 pump.

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#7 Gouldian

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 10:12 AM

QUOTE(Tangs @ Nov 6 2006, 09:53 AM) View Post

The new Schuran Nitratefilter 100 from Germany is designed for tanks between 300 up to 3000 litres and itís built from very thick clear acrylic and feels very strong.

Itís got a wide base plate to enable it to be stood alongside a sump, and it comes with most of the fittings required to get it up including a oneway-valve.

The Nitratefilter uses strong plumbing-grade PVC-U fittings and the connectors supplied are made to fit the easily recommended Eheim 1250 pump.


Hi Ken,

Hope I am not jumping the gun. How do you intend to feed the water into the de-nitrator? What will be the flow rate into the de-nitrator?

TIA biggrin2.gif

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#8 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 10:19 AM

QUOTE(Gouldian @ Nov 6 2006, 10:12 AM) View Post

Hi Ken,

Hope I am not jumping the gun. How do you intend to feed the water into the de-nitrator? What will be the flow rate into the de-nitrator?

TIA biggrin2.gif


Using a AquaBee UP500 pump to feed water via the unit's injector. smile.gif
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#9 kelstorm

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 10:26 AM

this is my version



it managed to bring my NO3 to zero.. despite heavy feeding daily

Eating Sharks Fins makes men impotent and women fat

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Let us work together to preserve the world for our children to inherit by being responsible to our surroundings. Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, bubbles and memories.

"When the last tree is cut and last river poisoned, you will realised that you cannot eat your money."

Safe Diving, Dive Safely.

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My last dive trip to Manado

Tank:63"x36"x30" IOS (Product of GeoAquatic), Sequence Reeflo Dart & Deltec 4745 (connected to a penductor) as Return pumps, Deltec PF601 Calcium Reactor, Weipro pH controller, Artica 1HP Chiller, 10 tubes of 54W T5 DE Lights (6 KZ Whites, 2 Fuji Purple, 2 Giesemann Pure Actinic), Deltec NF509 Sulphur Denitrator, Deltec 851 Skimmer, RM FR(with removable inner tube), Tunze 6060, 2xTunze TS07, TS24, 7095 Tunze multi-controller, 12" Typhoon Fan mounted on wall, Tunze wavebox, Coralife UV, American Pinpoint pH Monitor, American Pinpoint Wireless Thermometer, Aqualifter on JBJ Auto Topup, IKEA Storage Tub as Reservoir, SP300 for dosing, korallia 2, Hydor Color LED, DIY Moonlights and dawn/dusk lights.
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#10 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 10:28 AM

The reactor chamber has a capacity to fill up slightly less than 2 kg of sulphur beads or balls for colonization of bacteria.

However, if you hate using sulphur as the media then the alternative is to use the glass ceramics SPIROAX filing from Sera but then you need to feed the bacteria with diluted alcohol frequently eg Vodka

If you prefer sulphur beads then this would mean that you wouldnít need to dose the unit with alcohol. smile.gif

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#11 wlchew

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 10:46 AM

the sulphur bead like soyabead...yummy.. laugh.gif ...

at least you already have a proven unit running... laugh.gif
Date: May 08, 2009 Time: 2050 hrs


{Pardon me as I WON'T RESPONSE to anymore SMS, Please PM..}

MY DE-COM day is ON 4th May 2010.

Link to My 3.5ft Tank


Hi Everyone,

I will post the rest of equipments (from my storeroom) shortly...

Balance item:

All item MUST CLEAR..

Various trace elements (I will come out with the list shortly...ALL of them unused)..

1a. PURPLE-UP U.P. @$28 now only $15 EA.

Equipment:

2a. used CO2 cylinder (think is 2L?) - 2 Set. still in good condition.. $10 each one set
b. one set come with a used sol $50

2b. RM Denitrator can also use as CA Reactor too..going for S$100 - (With re-circulation MaxiJet pump, found my pump and can support PROBE)

2c. Giesemann NOVA II MH-150w (slim) - 1 Set @$130 S$110 Ea



mORE ITEM WILL PUT-UP WHEN I clear my storeroom.
2d. SEIO 820 with euro-bracing mounting bracket - 1 set @$15 ea. [Added]

2e. Another lot of Aqualight 10K X3 , Aqualight Blue X1 and AquaZ Blue Pro x1....all for S$30 [Added]

#12 kelstorm

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 10:51 AM

chew san, run the sulphur-trator.. u wun regret it leh

Eating Sharks Fins makes men impotent and women fat

Posted Image

Let us work together to preserve the world for our children to inherit by being responsible to our surroundings. Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, bubbles and memories.

"When the last tree is cut and last river poisoned, you will realised that you cannot eat your money."

Safe Diving, Dive Safely.

Self
Confessed
Underwater
Breathing
Addict

My last dive trip to Manado

Tank:63"x36"x30" IOS (Product of GeoAquatic), Sequence Reeflo Dart & Deltec 4745 (connected to a penductor) as Return pumps, Deltec PF601 Calcium Reactor, Weipro pH controller, Artica 1HP Chiller, 10 tubes of 54W T5 DE Lights (6 KZ Whites, 2 Fuji Purple, 2 Giesemann Pure Actinic), Deltec NF509 Sulphur Denitrator, Deltec 851 Skimmer, RM FR(with removable inner tube), Tunze 6060, 2xTunze TS07, TS24, 7095 Tunze multi-controller, 12" Typhoon Fan mounted on wall, Tunze wavebox, Coralife UV, American Pinpoint pH Monitor, American Pinpoint Wireless Thermometer, Aqualifter on JBJ Auto Topup, IKEA Storage Tub as Reservoir, SP300 for dosing, korallia 2, Hydor Color LED, DIY Moonlights and dawn/dusk lights.
My Reprieve from lack of diving - My little lagoon
Chronicle of my tank - The same tank in another thread
EX Geo Aquatic Club Old Newbie Posted ImagePosted Image

#13 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 06:13 PM

QUOTE(wlchew @ Nov 6 2006, 10:46 AM) View Post

the sulphur bead like soyabead...yummy.. laugh.gif ...

at least you already have a proven unit running... laugh.gif


That is correct amd that's why setting another similar unit is brisk from previous experience. smile.gif


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#14 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 06:20 PM

Before filling the reactor with sulphur beads or balls, it is strongly recommended to wash thoroughly and intensively so as to remove any powdery dust to prevent any "clogging" or "blocking" of the denitrator output airline tubing.

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#15 Tangs

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Posted 06 November 2006 - 06:54 PM

Thereís a probe holder on the top to take an ORP electrode, and thereís some handy advice in the instructions on the right level of ORP to aim for within the unit.

This is a good tool but unfortunately you need an ORP controller which has the capability to allow you to set redox values of at least -250mV (minus 250mV) to prevent poisonous sulphur hydrogen gas from emerging if the value falls below -250mV.

The recommended value for sulphur filling is between -100 (minus 100mV) and -250mV (minus 250mV).

For those without using an ORP probe in the reactor chamber, it is strongly recommended that you regularly check the tap valve for blockage if there is no secondary reactor or Calcium Reactor to neutralize the acidic output from the denitrator.

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